An Artist Alone in the National Parks

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The Captive – It was such a silly thing, when all those tiny boats approached her. She had only been cooling her feet in the river when the tiny armada attacked. Now, it was too late to escape.

An Artist Alone in the National Parks

It sounds like the plot of a horror film, or a really tragic movie on the Lifetime network: woman packs up and drives off to spend her summer camping alone in the wilderness. I was endlessly warned about the risks. Hadn’t I read Into the Wild, didn’t know what was out there? Had I forgotten that bad things always happen to the protagonist in stories like this? Didn’t I realize that I was a defenseless, helpless woman, not only camping, but also camping alone? Was I crazy? Surely, there was some man out there waiting to harm me, stalking me like a hungry tiger. At one point I was even recommended to carry a gun. What if I got hurt hiking, or lost? Could I drag my broken body to safety or would I just die alone in the cold dark forest? What about bears? How would I stay safe amongst all these threats? There was so much to fear, so much to loose, was it really worth the risk?

Fortunately, I don’t watch too much television and Cheryl Strayed’s epic tail, Wild: Lost and Found on the Pacific Crest Trial, is one of my favorite books. Of course, like the beginning of any good adventure, there were moments when I thought, “wow, this could go really badly.”   Instead of worrying, I tucked away my fears and started to plan. On a hot July day, I packed my car and headed out to explore America’s National Park system. I bought a season pass, and over the course of four months, I visited ten parks, camping in eight of them. I decided to stay in the public campgrounds, choosing running water, picnic tables, flush toilets, and pre-made fire rings over total isolation in the backcountry. During the day, I hiked and took photographs, in the evenings I read, cooked, and sat by my campfire. I went to bed early, got up with the sun, and although I was always aware of my aloneness, I never once felt lonely.

Alice

Alice – When Alice reached a certain age, she returned to Wonderland permanently. Everything that had been so disconcerting when she was young, she now found quite comforting, or not so strange that it couldn’t be solved by a cup of strong tea.

When I moved to Mexico two years ago, I had many of the same fears about traveling as a woman alone, only to have them disappear upon arrival. Yes, you do have to be cautious in Mexico, but had I heeded the warnings not to go, I would have missed out on one of the most amazing experiences of my life. Fears hold us back in so many ways, but through facing them we reap such great rewards. With this in mind, I knew that I had to trust in my instincts and see what was out there hiding in the woods. Now, sitting at my desk watching the days get darker and the December solstice approach, I long for my summer spent camping alone. Rather than as a terrifying, dangerous trip, my memories of summer are relaxed and carefree. I set out on this camping adventure, not only to breath fresh air and to sleep under the stars, but to change the course of my life and also my career.

I am a fine art photographer, and for the past five years I have been completely involved in creating a series of long exposure self-portraits. Last April, I finally completed the series and exhibited them as The Secret Garden. I was ready for something new, but my inner critic berated my every effort. I can still hear the chastisements, “it’s all been done before,” “nothing you do is original,” “your work sucks.” I believed it all, and I cowered. My anxieties manifested in my life. I cried, I fought with my boyfriend, I got depressed, I gained weight, and I was sure a complete breakdown was imminent. Things were getting really rough, when one day, deep inside my heart I heard the words: “the only way out is through.” At that moment, I realized I had to make every bad, poorly executed, derivative image I could think of, until they were all out of my system. I had to not only face my fears, but to live up to them and move on. This is when I decided I needed some alone time.

The Weather Girl

The Weather Girl – It pleased her to play with the weather. She enjoyed nothing more that watching raindrops splash and make rings in the pond. It was a great responsibility, being in control of the weather, but occasionally she did as she liked.

I packed up my home in Mexico, sold what I could, and gave the rest away. I said goodbye to the man I had been dating for over a year and headed back to United States. I thought it would all be harder than it was, but when I drove into that first National Park and pitched my tent, I felt freer than I had in ages. Every day I hiked, slowly building up from long walks, until one day I actually trekked sixteen miles and climbed and descended over three thousand feet. It took months to get strong enough, and I had some serious trials along the way, including running out of water more that once. Over time, I learned what I was capable of accomplishing. I began carrying a water filter and eventually anything under ten miles was a breeze.  As I walked, my mind became clearer and more creative. I started having to stop and scribble down ideas along the way. My dreams were vivid and detailed. Soon, I was taking new photos almost every day. Not everything was brilliant, but it didn’t matter anymore because I had so many ideas that I could hardly keep up. I tore down my creative block and was suddenly swimming in pure inspiration.

It all sounds a little dramatic, and it was, right down to my car, which became a dress up trunk full of things scavenged from thrift and vintage stores along the way. I had props, wigs, and costumes.  Occasionally, while wearing make up and dressed in a sparkly ball gown, I surprised other hikers as they passed by.  Fortunately, I wasn’t always alone this summer and I can’t take complete credit for my transformation. After years of travel and living abroad, I felt like I had lost my photographic community. I was creating in a vacuum and it was indeed lonely. To remedy this, I reached out to photographers that inspired me and I took their workshops. It all started with the strobist Syl Arena at the Santa Fe Workshops, then I met Jenna Martin and Joshua Malik in Las Vegas, a few months later I became part of the Wild One’s community in Portland, Oregon, and finally, I met the inspirational Brooke Shaden in Hana, Hawaii. All of these teachers and everyone who came to participate in the workshops pushed me and inspired me to trust myself. I now consider them friends, and feel like a whole new creative world has opened up.

The Seeker

The Seeker – They had traveled hundreds of miles from their jungly ocean home. Now, high above the clouds, in an airless desert, they reached the mouth of the ancient crater. As the sun set before her, and the moon rose behind her, she knew that she must descend to the floor of the sleeping volcano and wait for the full eclipse. Then and only then would she know…

Many of the images I took this summer were really complex composites.  This winter, as I edit them together, I get to re-live my summer adventures. These images are far and beyond anything I believed I was capable of creating and I am so excited to share them. I am proud of myself for facing my fears and heading out into the wilderness alone. I had a few adrenaline filled moments including almost stepping on a rattle snake, but when my car broke down, half the campground came together to get it started, and when I decided to stay in a hotel and abandon my camp for the night because it was raining and miserable, the rangers came to check on me the next day. I was safe. Every fear I had, felt unfounded in the end.  Although, I always carried mace and spent many an hour late at night listening for them in camp, I was never lucky enough to see a bear.

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The Seeker

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The Seeker

Occasionally, I have to reach into the archives and pull something out for this photo of the week project.  This was taken a few weeks back when I was on my family’s organic orchard in Coachella CA.  I wish I had time to shoot every week, alas, I do not, but I am also happy to get to show this image as otherwise it may never have seen the light of day.

The Lavender Project

A few weeks after I moved to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico I was feeling a bit overwhelmed.  I was in desperate need of some time away from the city to breathe fresh air, get away from people, and feel that I was in nature.  Thankfully, I had just made a new friend, Carrie Haugh.  Carrie was in the final stages of acting in a short film that would go on to be an official entry in the Guanajuato Film Festival.  The last scene they needed to shoot was a dream sequence that takes place in a flowering lavender field.  Although, there is a lot of agriculture in this area of Mexico, it is mostly known to be a hot and dry climate.  One is much more likely to think of towering prickly-pear cactus trees than French lavender fields.  Alas, this place is always full of surprises.

After forty-five minuets of barreling down a Mexican freeway in an old van with questionable steering and brakes, we pulled onto a dirt road and followed the signs to an enormous lavender farm. For various reasons, Guanajuato is a state from which men emigrate heavily to find work in the USA.  The sad side effect being that whole towns are left with only women, children, and the elderly to continue to support their community.  Rather than allowing these pueblos to sink even further into poverty and ultimately disappear, an NGO out of Albuquerque, New Mexico is bringing in The Lavender Project.  A wonderful program, these co-op lavender farms have created a fantastic renewable source of employment and income (Please visit their web page to find out more: http://thelavenderproject.com/).  The products they make are divine and they have a chocolate-lavender soap that smells so good I could live in it.

It was such a relief to step out of the car and inhale the fresh lavender plants drying out after a light rain.  The film crew went to work and I was left with several hours and a field of my own in which to play.  I even crawled over the fence and into some of the aforementioned prickly pear cactuses to take photos. It really is stunning to spend an afternoon in a place as surreal as a lavender field and I can assure you my need to “get away from it all” was quenched.

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Isla Mujeres

It has been about four months since I last made any new images.  This winter, I have been living in the snowy Colorado Mountains and I find that when the weather is cold I have no interest in creating new work.  Fortunately, this post finds me traveling through the Yucatan peninsula of Mexico.  I arrived on the full moon, landing in Cancun and immediately taking a ferry out to Isla Mujeres.  During the day I partook of the usual beach stuff, highlighted by a snorkeling trip to the Under Water Museum.  This place is absolutely amazing and a lot bigger than I expected, there were sculptures all over the place, and a lot of surprising ones I had not seen in any photos of the project.  My biggest regret is not being a diver, as the sculptures sit about thirty feet under the ocean surface and snorkeling just does not do the artwork justice.  For more info on this incredible place, check out: http://www.musacancun.com/.

By night, I have been out under the full moon on the rocky seaside cliffs, evoking La Serena.  Fitting, as I am on the Island of Women.  The motivation for these images came while dancing to Cuban salsa, at La Terraza, a great local bar. I met three German sailors there who were living and working on The Stahlratte: www.stahlratte.org.  This is huge steel sailboat run by a non-profit foundation, and by far the largest sailing vessel docked on the island.  Anyone can sail with them as they circle the Caribbean, but it is a work/live situation not a cruse ship.  From my tour of the boat and meeting the staff, I imagine this might be as close to feeling like a real pirate as one could find these days. With sailing on my mind, and hearing stories of vessels breaking up on the rocks surrounding the island, I was inspired to play the roll of the temptress on the cliffs.

In the first images, La Serena beams a light into the night, mimicking a lighthouse and falsely directing ships.  Later, she sings out to the sailors, enchanting them and luring them to their demise.  It felt so good to be shooting again, and to also have a little narrative in mind while I was working.  I do feel a bit rusty, and I am test-driving my brand new Nikon D7000.  So far so good but I kind of wish I had not left the manual at home.  The images I am getting look gorgeous with this improved sensor, but I have to be careful these days, as my images files are three times larger and my computer’s hard drive is going fast.  I have about ten more days in the Yucatan to shoot new work, cenotes and Mayan ruins here I come. As always click on the image to see a larger version.

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Ex-Hacienda San Gabriel de Barrera

On a sunny September day, I climbed onto a Primera Plus bus and traveled to the small city of Guanajuato.  A four-hundred-year-old Spanish mining town, Guanajuato was the center of the Mexican war of independence.  Built into a steep valley, colorful houses are terraced along tiny staircases that thread down to the valley floor.  The city is generally known for two things, its tunnels and its mummies.  The tunnels came about after the main river flooded in 1907, and almost wiped out the town.  The locals decided to divert the river, leaving empty subterranean tunnels that had funneled water under the city.  The tunnels were re-appropriated for transportation and expanded through out the area, minimizing traffic and leaving a lovely walking street that winds through downtown.  The mummies are due to the hot dry climate and the practice of interring the dead in mausoleums.  When the families of the dead could no longer afford to pay a yearly fee in order keep their dead loved ones in graves, the bodies were pulled out and kept in a museum adjacent to the graveyard.  The museum is open today, but no longer practices disinterment.

Another remarkable historical site in Guanajuato is the Ex-Hacienda San Gabriel de Barrera.  Built in the late 1600’s it was home to Captain Gabriel de Barrera who’s family were descendants of the Conde de Rul of the local Valenciana mine.  This mine, though still active, was once one of the largest silver producing mines in the world.  The old hacienda still stands, although it was heavily damaged in the war of independence. The hacienda grounds used to be a working refinery for silver oar extracted from the Valenciana mine, but now have been converted into seventeen incredible gardens.  A week before, I came to Guanajuato on a scouting mission to see whether this place was appropriate for photography.  What I found was a huge space that I would love to return to again and again, day or night, to create images.

I arrived midday at the bus station and was greeted by my old friend Nico.  Nico and I met about three years back when he was working as a barista in a coffee shop and I used to ask him for help with my Spanish homework.  Nico kindly volunteered to help me for the day as a photo assistant.  Thank goodness he did, because I could not have done it with out him.  We spent the day goofing around in the gardens taking all kinds of photographs.  Having done the image on the Brooklyn Bridge as a Shiva, I though it would be fun to take some photos as Mary and the Virgin Guadalupe.  I brought several yards of blue and red fabric with me and draped it over myself like a shroud.  The imagery is probably too kitschy and obvious to actually work, but I had fun doing it.

This location screams for my sometimes photography collaborator Aloyse Blair, as it is full of beautiful fountains and I am not nearly as capable as she at imitating Greek goddess statues.  I did my best, and looking at the images I would like to do some research on Greek goddess art and try again.  At this point, I am finally starting to get the hang of my neutral density filter, and taking images with it is getting much more predictable.  Ideally, I show up best in full sunlight with a dark shadowy background.  Knowing this, I think making daylight images will start to become far more successful.  Next time, I would really love to see if I can come back and shoot at night.

Xochicalco

In the Mexican state of Morelos, there is an ancient temple complex that may date as far back as 200bc.  This archeological site is known as Xochicalco or “the place of flowers,” and during 700-900ad it was populated by up to 20,000 inhabitants. The actual identity of the people who lived there is unknown, but they are believed to have been Mayan influenced.  Although in its heyday, it was a bustling trade city, this place is now a tranquil park, more suited for meditation, and contemplation.

The day we went to Xochicalco was hot and humid, two things that this polar bear does not suffer well.  As soon as we reached the temple complex, I was off and running, trying to make as many different images as possible before my sightseeing companions got bored and wanted to head home.  Within ten minuets of working I was drenched in sweat.  I really wish I had had more time to explore, as Xochicalco is truly magnificent.  Although, it is an UNESCO World Heritage Site, you basically have the run of the place and can climb the temples and explore the ancient ruins at will.  I don’t know if in the hour I had to shoot, I was able to capture much, but I do know in the future I would love to return to another temple complex.  In the end, I got scurried away by a grounds keeper that wouldn’t let me use my tripod, but was fascinated by what I was doing.  He kept trying to to use my camera to take my photo for me.  If my phone hadn’t started to ring, telling me to come back to the car, I’m sure I could have gotten a final shot with more than one of me standing on the top of the temple.

I used my Neutral Density filter for these images, and although I do love it, I am still learning how to make the best images.  I have not yet decided such things as how I look in sun versus shadow, etc.  After doing so much work at night, I can generally visualize exactly what will happen in any given circumstance, but in daylight I am often surprised. One of the things I don’t love about this filter is the color shift; it generally muddies and grays out colors.  Thus, I decided to push them off the gamut.  I like the results, but they are not set in stone.

Yellowstone National Park

After the council of The 13 Grandmothers, my friend Terra Celeste and I went to Yellowstone National Park for the first full moon in August. Upon leaving Grandmother Margaret’s home, we were asked to take an offering to the Medicine Wheel in eastern Wyoming.  This location is one of the oldest sacred spots in North America and may have been built over 10,000 years ago.  Different indigenous tribes have been coming and doing sacred ceremonies there for so long, no one is exactly sure who built it in the first place. The meeting of the Grandmothers was a very intense experience, and it was really nice to complete the ceremony at the Medicine Wheel, with an offering of tobacco and prayers.

As we continued our journey, through the park to the town of West Yellowstone, we saw an owl, a pair of coyotes, and a buffalo, all wandering in the middle of the road.  After arriving, we had quick dinner, checked into our hotel, and headed back into the park to see how geysers and thermal water look under a full moon.  August in Yellowstone is high season, and you can expect throngs of tourists unless you head out in the middle of the night.  With the exception of a few other photographers, we had the place to ourselves.  If Yellowstone is a magical place by day, it is far more amazing by full moon.  As we walked around the geysers, moist steam rolled off the thermal pools and punctuated the chilly air; intermittently enveloping us in shifting clouds of blinding, white, warmth.

Over the next two nights, we shot for several hours in the park and came up with some really nice new images.  I would love to return to Yellowstone, as I feel like there is so much more we could have done.  I love the color and texture in the park, from the vibrant blues of a full moon sky to the rainbow colors of the pools.  Although, I think they do work in most of these shots, one of the hardest things about shooting in the park are the walkways.  It was a real challenge to either incorporate them, or to hide them in the images.  Regardless, I am very happy with what happened during this shoot.  I think that a few of these photos really need to be viewed big, so please click on them to enlarge.

The Bridgers

Concluding The Sacred Door Trail opening ceremony, a group of us headed to Weston Pew’s stunning family-ranch that nestles up against the Bridger mountain range just north of Bozeman, Montana.  The week spent there was a much-needed decompression after the spiritual intensity of the previous few days.  We spent our time resting, singing along with guitars on the porch, eating home cooked food and going on a bunch of outings.  One of these outings was on the fourth of July and included rafting down the Yellowstone River, eating a picnic lunch, and singing and dancing the night away at the Bank Bar (a local cowboy watering hole), in Wilsall, Montana.

During this time there was a full moon and though I was pretty spent from camping, I found time to take a few photos.  My previously mentioned partner in crime, Melanie Malia, helped me wander out into the moonlight to take some photos with the Pew’s lovely grey horse.  Just as we were starting to get our rhythm, “Bill” the notorious beast of a dog, came and did a fine job of chasing the horses away.  As everyone who was there can attest, the name “Bill” on the ranch is generally said at full volume and followed by some sort of accusation or negative…. “BILL… NOOOO BILL… NO BILL… BAD DOG BILL… STOP THAT BILL… BIIIIILLLLLL!!!!!!!!”

Once Bill was content with the horse situation, he lay down in the road and happily watched us finish the shoot.  As I have mentioned before, I have a very hard time working in full-moon light.  The conditions are very similar to working in daylight and present a huge challenge when working alone.  It’s a bit like being on a fully lit stage with no script, set, or props, and told to just do something cool. Inevitably, whatever you do ends up feelinging a bit contrived and awkward.  Personally, I feel this way about these images, but I have also had some good response to the work, so I feel like I am close to something new.  In the next post I will go into some of what I learned in my workshop with Arno Minkenen… as I try for a breakthrough.

Valdovino, Spain or Surfing with the Seekers

Back In Madrid, I think I could live here.  This is such a sweet city.  I have been out on the Celtic coast of Galicia for the past week, surfing with my old friend Marilyn Poon at the Seeker Surf Camp.  It felt so good to be in the water again (even if we did have to wear full wetsuits).  Getting into Madrid was such a temperature shock today.  Galicia is pretty cold and windy for the most part, and today it was really a gloomy drizzly Irish day.  By contrast, Madrid is hot, I mean really hot, I think it was around 35c today.  This temperature thing really played into how few images I made while I was at the coast, not to mention I was totally exhausted after surfing all day.  There was also the daylight factor, as Galicia really does not get dark in the summer until 11:30 at night.  By that time, we were eating dinner and falling into bed, dead to the world.

I was feeling pretty lousy about not making any images, so last night I grabbed Marilyn, just at twilight and went out to the beach right in front of the house.  This big sandy beach is in the tiny town of Valdovino, and although that is what most people call this beach, its official name is Praia de Frouxeira.  The tides were swinging really high and low, and we just happened to be out there during low tide, so we were able to get some really nice images with the reflections in the tide pools on the sand.  Not to mention that we were able to get really close to the tiny island of Percebelleira.  Known for this strange edible barnacle, the Percebes, or “pinky finger.”  I missed out on trying this delicacy, but maybe when we are back up north in the Basque country, I will run across a few.

It felt good to be on the beach, and it was actually the warmest night of all.  For which I was very thankful.  I think we got some really nice images, and I am happy with the outcome.  I even reverted back to what I have now deemed the “ghost dances.”  I have had some resistance to these images, but I am really drawn to them.  I like getting out there, dancing and moving, it feels so natural and yet ritualistic.  They are not nearly as static as some of my images, which have a different kind of rooted strength.

Tomorrow my sister comes, and I have no idea if I will be making many more images on this trip.  We shall see.  (P.S. If you don’t already know, just click on the images to get a full sized view)