Tag Archives: Mexico

Hierve el Agua

A few years ago I saw a travel photo of my friend Lauren Lewis standing in one of the most beautiful natural infinity pools in the world.  This image really made an impression on me and I knew that one day I would have to try to shoot an image there.  Turns out that the location is Hierve el Agua, a few hours drive into the mountains outside the city of Oaxaca, Mexico.  Created by natural spring that has a very high mineral content, thousands of years has left cascading deposits that flow down the mountain side in frozen waterfalls.  On the top of this unusual formation are pools of water where bathers can swim on hot days.

As reluctant as I am to get up early, we were in our van by 7am and at the pools by 9am when they open.   I was just able to take these images before the hoards started to arrive.  Thankfully, I was traveling with a group of photographers that appreciate shooting without other people around.  This is one location I would love to photograph over and over again just to see how different cloud formations, sunsets and sunrises affect the images.

Normally, I pride myself on having crisp in focus images, but while shooting this I accidentally dropped my neutral density filter into the water.  I dried it carefully and put it back on my camera, but I didn’t realize that the water had left behind a really nasty film.  The effect of this film was an incredibly beautiful soft focus.  Although this is not my normal modus operandi, I actually love the effect.

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The Ethno-Botanical Garden, Oaxaca

Occasionally, before I head to a new place, I get online and scope out photographs to get ideas for shooting locations.  When I came across images of the reflecting cactus pool at the Ethno-Botanical Garden in Oaxaca, Mexico, I knew I had found something magical.  Within hours of my arrival in Oaxaca, I had tracked down the gardens and gotten a very rare permit from the director to shoot photos over the following two evenings.  The garden itself is the old grounds of the Santo Domingo de Guzman church and monastery.  Built in the late 1500’s and fully restored in 1999, the church remains a functioning religious site, but the monastery has been converted into a regional museum.  The museum is best known for housing sacred gold relics that have been discovered at Monte Alban, the ancient indigenous pyramids just outside of the city.  Due to potential monastery access issues through the gardens, it its closed at sunset and getting to stay even a half-an-hour into the dusk is a great privilege.  Unfortunately, I was asked to sign a strict personal use agreement, so I may never really get to do much with these images, but having the opportunity to take them was thrilling.

Although, I was granted access to the gardens from 5-7pm, and it was almost dark by 6:30, I had to be at the gates at 6:45 or the guard would lock me in.  This gave me a lot of time to wander around taking a variety of daylight images and almost no time in the dark at the cactus reflecting pool.  Thank goodness I had two nights to shoot, because I totally blew it the first evening.  These images are the first that I have taken with my new Nikon 10-24 lens and obviously I still have a lot to learn about focusing it in the dark.  Even though, I set up the shot before dusk, like a well-organized photographer, I accidentally moved the camera and could not quite get it back into focus.  This mistake was not really apparent on the back of my camera, but later in Lightroom, I could tell the images were fairly useless.

The second night by the reflecting pool was much more successful, but making this image was far from easy.  In order to get an image in the dark, I was relegated to shooting during the transition from evening to night when the light changes very fast.  Thus, I was forced to run back and forth around the reflecting pool to the camera, adjusting the exposure settings for every image.  This is why you can see a fairly pronounced difference between the first and second images at the pool.  Both nights, 6:45 came far to fast, just as I was getting into the swing of things and the images were getting interesting.  All in all, I feel like the shoot was a success and I am happy with the work, but of course I would have loved to have more time.

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Teotihuacan and Monte Alban

Rather than split these two entries (as both the theme and dress are the same), I am choosing to combine Teotihuacan and Monte Alban.  Each of these pre-Columbian archeological sites are spectacular examples of the kind of early civilizations that were found throughout Mexico and Central America.  Monte Alban is in southern Mexico, sitting gloriously up on a hill above Oaxaca City; where Teotihuacan lies in the volcanic foothills just outside Mexico City.  Founded about 500BC, Monte Alban was a thriving metropolis by the time Teotihuacan was founded in 100BC.  A much smaller community of primarily Zapotec inhabitants, Monte Alban reached a peak population of 17,000; a fraction of Teotihuacan’s multi-ethnic population of 125,000.  By 1000AD both sites had basically been abandoned. Fast-forward another 1000 years; here I am, trying to make some interesting images amongst the ruins.

I visited Teotihuacan first, climbing the Pyramid of the Sun with my good friend Jorge Arroyo.  Even amongst the vendors and tourists, it is easy to see that this place was a very spiritual site to its previous inhabitants.  Reaching the top, we felt compelled to sit facing the sun, burning a little Palo Santo wood and giving thanks for all life has brought us, good and bad.  Lots of tears, hugs and high fives later, we climbed down feeling cleansed and re-energized.  At the bottom I began creating images, but as usual, I was short on time and the whole thing felt hurried.  There was also the extra challenge of having tourists everywhere, walking in and out of my shots (thank god for the clone stamp tool).  When I visited Monte Alban about a month later, I got up very early and was one of the first people in the park, but by ten am there were swarms of visitors arriving by the tour-bus-load.  Undaunted, I created quite a spectacle of myself doing these “frozen” poses, thankfully the Mexican people are very accepting of artists.

I am not really sure what I think of these images.  My first reservation is probably the most obvious, as in: “what is a gringa doing taking these kinds of images in a Mesoamerican archeological site?”  I’m not really sure I can answer this, but maybe it is nothing more than an attraction and deep appreciation for the grandeur and beauty of these locations.  I think that by not donning some native costume or other artifice, I lend some credibility to the images as I present myself just as I am: tall, blond, and white.  Maybe acknowledging that I am inspired by the place, as I am in nature, is enough to legitimize the work. I don’t know. I would love to hear what you think, and to which images you are drawn.  You can always leave me comments at the end of the entry.

El Charco del Ingenio

Above the town of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico is the 160 acre nature preserve El Charco del Ingenio.  Over the past few years this place has become one of my main centers for creativity and inspiration.  I have had the privilege to shoot some of my best photographs in this space as well as work as an invited artist on an incredible land art project.  For this project I built four large-scale altars, one to each of the four directions, incorporating different indigenous mythologies.  When I returned to San Miguel this September, I knew I was going to have to do some new photography in the preserve.  Although you are technically not allowed to be in the park after dark, if you go to watch the sunset and stay for a few hours they are generally tolerant.  I always warn the guards that I will be there late just so we don’t scare the crap out of each other in the dark.  Surprising men with big guns isn’t exactly high on my list of priorities.

The main beauty of the Charco is that there are a plethora of different ecosystems crammed into a small space.  The area around San Miguel is a high altitude (7000ft), two-season (dry and rainy) climate.  The plants are very hardy, and include massive prickly pear cactus trees, very spiny acacias, and lots of grasses.  Water can be quite scarce at times.  In the center of the park is a large dam created wetland that regularly hosts Autobahn bird watching tours and can flood or become a dry mud flat depending on the season.  Below the dam there is a very steep rocky canyon with sheer hundred foot walls.  On hot days you can climb down very sketchy ladders to the shady floor and sit on the boulders amongst cool pools of water.  At the head of this canyon is a large natural spring or El Charco. This spring is said to be protected by a spirit, El Chan, that harms anyone who comes too close.  There are many tales of drowning in the spring and apparently scuba divers have never found the bottom, just a maze of underwater tunnels.  For some reason, depending on the season, the water changes colors and can range from white, red and orange to deep blues and greens.

Once again, my friend Nico came to assist and after watching the sunset from the cliffs over looking San Miguel, we got to work.  The location I scouted was below the dam and above the spring where there are large pools of water and lots of boulders to climb on.  Once we got started, a lovely bright half moon rose to illuminate the scene.  We had such a beautiful experience that evening I’m not even sure I was really concentrating on the work.  Behind us a small waterfall was trickling down, the air was warm and comfortable, the wind was calm, and to my absolute delight the fireflies decided to join us.  To say this was a magical and memorable evening only saddens the great poets.  At one point I think we almost decided to curl up on one of the big, flat, sun-warmed boulders to sleep under the stars.  Honestly, I probably would have done just that if I weren’t half packed and leaving at eight in the morning.

What follows are the last images taken with my old Tamron 10-24 lens.  After shooting probably 60,000 images with this lens, I am really starting to see the quality of the images degrading.  I have heard that the cheap digital lenses eventually wear out, but this is the first one I have actually used to death.  I am not unhappy with the intentions of this work, but I am not thrilled with the image quality.  There were a lot of interesting shots in this group that just didn’t turn out well and I know it has much to do with my lens.  So out with the old and in with the new, I am chomping at the bit to start using my new Nikon 10-24, yippie!

Ex-Hacienda San Gabriel de Barrera

On a sunny September day, I climbed onto a Primera Plus bus and traveled to the small city of Guanajuato.  A four-hundred-year-old Spanish mining town, Guanajuato was the center of the Mexican war of independence.  Built into a steep valley, colorful houses are terraced along tiny staircases that thread down to the valley floor.  The city is generally known for two things, its tunnels and its mummies.  The tunnels came about after the main river flooded in 1907, and almost wiped out the town.  The locals decided to divert the river, leaving empty subterranean tunnels that had funneled water under the city.  The tunnels were re-appropriated for transportation and expanded through out the area, minimizing traffic and leaving a lovely walking street that winds through downtown.  The mummies are due to the hot dry climate and the practice of interring the dead in mausoleums.  When the families of the dead could no longer afford to pay a yearly fee in order keep their dead loved ones in graves, the bodies were pulled out and kept in a museum adjacent to the graveyard.  The museum is open today, but no longer practices disinterment.

Another remarkable historical site in Guanajuato is the Ex-Hacienda San Gabriel de Barrera.  Built in the late 1600’s it was home to Captain Gabriel de Barrera who’s family were descendants of the Conde de Rul of the local Valenciana mine.  This mine, though still active, was once one of the largest silver producing mines in the world.  The old hacienda still stands, although it was heavily damaged in the war of independence. The hacienda grounds used to be a working refinery for silver oar extracted from the Valenciana mine, but now have been converted into seventeen incredible gardens.  A week before, I came to Guanajuato on a scouting mission to see whether this place was appropriate for photography.  What I found was a huge space that I would love to return to again and again, day or night, to create images.

I arrived midday at the bus station and was greeted by my old friend Nico.  Nico and I met about three years back when he was working as a barista in a coffee shop and I used to ask him for help with my Spanish homework.  Nico kindly volunteered to help me for the day as a photo assistant.  Thank goodness he did, because I could not have done it with out him.  We spent the day goofing around in the gardens taking all kinds of photographs.  Having done the image on the Brooklyn Bridge as a Shiva, I though it would be fun to take some photos as Mary and the Virgin Guadalupe.  I brought several yards of blue and red fabric with me and draped it over myself like a shroud.  The imagery is probably too kitschy and obvious to actually work, but I had fun doing it.

This location screams for my sometimes photography collaborator Aloyse Blair, as it is full of beautiful fountains and I am not nearly as capable as she at imitating Greek goddess statues.  I did my best, and looking at the images I would like to do some research on Greek goddess art and try again.  At this point, I am finally starting to get the hang of my neutral density filter, and taking images with it is getting much more predictable.  Ideally, I show up best in full sunlight with a dark shadowy background.  Knowing this, I think making daylight images will start to become far more successful.  Next time, I would really love to see if I can come back and shoot at night.

Xochicalco

In the Mexican state of Morelos, there is an ancient temple complex that may date as far back as 200bc.  This archeological site is known as Xochicalco or “the place of flowers,” and during 700-900ad it was populated by up to 20,000 inhabitants. The actual identity of the people who lived there is unknown, but they are believed to have been Mayan influenced.  Although in its heyday, it was a bustling trade city, this place is now a tranquil park, more suited for meditation, and contemplation.

The day we went to Xochicalco was hot and humid, two things that this polar bear does not suffer well.  As soon as we reached the temple complex, I was off and running, trying to make as many different images as possible before my sightseeing companions got bored and wanted to head home.  Within ten minuets of working I was drenched in sweat.  I really wish I had had more time to explore, as Xochicalco is truly magnificent.  Although, it is an UNESCO World Heritage Site, you basically have the run of the place and can climb the temples and explore the ancient ruins at will.  I don’t know if in the hour I had to shoot, I was able to capture much, but I do know in the future I would love to return to another temple complex.  In the end, I got scurried away by a grounds keeper that wouldn’t let me use my tripod, but was fascinated by what I was doing.  He kept trying to to use my camera to take my photo for me.  If my phone hadn’t started to ring, telling me to come back to the car, I’m sure I could have gotten a final shot with more than one of me standing on the top of the temple.

I used my Neutral Density filter for these images, and although I do love it, I am still learning how to make the best images.  I have not yet decided such things as how I look in sun versus shadow, etc.  After doing so much work at night, I can generally visualize exactly what will happen in any given circumstance, but in daylight I am often surprised. One of the things I don’t love about this filter is the color shift; it generally muddies and grays out colors.  Thus, I decided to push them off the gamut.  I like the results, but they are not set in stone.

The House of One Hundred Years of Solitude

In mid August, I headed down to Cuernavaca, Mexico, to visit with my old friend Marela Zacarias.  Marela grew up around Mexico City but currently resides in New York City; she was on a trip to visit family and I was invited to tag along.  The house we stayed at has been in her family for generations.  This beautiful compound is a bit like Marquez’s House of a Hundred Years of Solitude.  It is built on a large sloping hillside that is terraced and ends in a deep barranca below.  Each level accommodates different areas including gardens, swings, walkways, and swimming pools, all in various states of repair.

There is a special magic to a place like this, a place where there are echoes of parties long since past, children grown up, and a future yet to come.  One can imagine golden era Hollywood starlets, flirting under the canopy of lush trees, limbs embracing each other like lovers. If you listen carefully you can hear the sounds of children squealing in delight as they dash down the waterslide, crashing into the grotto like swimming pool.  Here and there are the shadows of gardens being taken back by the jungle, gardens that must have grown abundant tropical flowers.  The past is present, but there is also a great deal of promise, as slowly the structures are being reinforced against a climate that loves to decay anything in its grasp.  Who knows what mysteries will unfold or what tails of love will transpire.

On a trip to the local artisans market, I purchased a small handmade, papier-mâché tiger mask.  As I have previously discussed, I am trying to incorporate some different costumes and props into my images.  One of the things I have always liked about working with long exposures is the anonymity, as my face is usually blurred and unrecognizable.  I think that this allows my viewers to place themselves into the images.  Now that I am fequently working in full daylight, using my neutral density filter, I find that I am more recognizable and a masking is a great solution.  In the past, I created a lot of images dealing with issues of masking, whether through makeup, costumes or just personal identity.  I feel like this is an interesting integration between work that is old and new.